Chiang Mai

Nimman reality check: amazing cafes, Maya mall, walkable. But planes overhead every 20 min — fine for async work, annoying on Zoom calls. Moved calls to Punspace or a cafe with a garden in the back. Still worth it for the nomad density.

Wat Chedi Luang at 8am — before tour groups. The big chedi ruins are impressive and the city pillar shrine is quiet early. Old City has 300+ temples but this one + Wat Chiang Man (oldest) is enough for a morning walk inside the moat.

Khao soi near Chang Phueak Gate — the lady with the blue sign (you'll know). 50 baht, rich coconut curry, add the pickled mustard. Then walk to Warorot Market for fruit. This is the Chiang Mai food loop tourists miss when they only eat on Nimman.

Doi Suthep sunrise — songthaew from Chiang Mai University area, 60 baht. Steps are a workout but views over the city at 7am are worth it. Go weekday, weekend is bus tour chaos. Dress covered — they lend wraps at the gate.

Sunday Walking Street on Ratchadamnoen — arrive 5pm before it's shoulder-to-shoulder. Handicrafts, street food, live music. Old City beats Nimman for culture days; Nimman wins for work days. Split the week like we did.

PSA for planners: burning season Feb–April is rough. I left in March last year — AQI over 150, wore N95 daily. Nov–Feb is golden. If you must come in March, check IQAir daily and have an escape plan (south or islands).