Penang

New Lane hawkers from 6pm — char koay kak, duck rice, lok lok. Locals actually eat here. Gurney Drive has everything in one place but prices are tourist-inflated. Both fine for first visit; come New Lane night 2 when you know what you like.

George Town street art walk — Ernest Zacharevic murals, Armenian St, Lebuh Ah Quee. Self-guided map from tourism office. Go 8am before tour groups and heat. Clan Jetties at Weld Quay worth sunset — Chew Jetty most photogenic.

Char kway teow hunt: Kimberley Street night (closed Tuesdays), Red Garden on Leith St, then the corner coffee shop on Penang Rd near Continental Hotel — assam laksa RM4. Gurney Plaza mall if you need AC between food stops.

Kapitan nasi kandar on Chulia — queue moves fast, rice + curry + ayam percik RM12. Halal and open late. Penang food capital reputation is earned — even the random mamak at 2am hits.

Kek Lok Si temple Air Itam — funicular up, giant pagoda, views over island. Combine with Air Itam market for laksa. Grab from George Town 20 min. Half day minimum, wear covered shoulders.