Melaka

Jonker Street Fri/Sat night market — crowded enough to shoulder-bump strangers but food makes it worth it. Jonker 88 cendol + laksa, Chung Wah chicken rice balls (go before 2pm sellout). Weekday daytime Jonker is walkable heritage without the crush.

Nancy's Kitchen Nyonya — book ahead, authentic Peranakan with pork dishes (halal travelers skip). Pongteh and ayam buah keluak if they have it. Cottage Spices on Jalan Merdeka also excellent, closed Thursdays.

Red Square / Dutch Square morning before tour buses — Stadthuys, Christ Church, trishaw guys not yet aggressive. Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum nearby (guided tours, steep stairs). 2D1N enough for food + heritage if you rush nothing.

Melaka from KL: 2 hr drive or nice ETS train to Bandar Melaka. Stay inside heritage zone if you want Jonker at your doorstep. Newton Food Court less touristy than Jonker for beer + seafood if you need a break.

Souvenir run: tau sau piah from Jing Yuan (Jalan Ong Kim Wee), pineapple tarts Bee Bee House, Baba Charlie nyonya kueh Tengkera. Buy morning before heat — pastry doesn't love afternoon bags.